Amazing ways on how we keep our fish happy at Kenya Marine Center

A happy fish is a healthy fish.  And keeping fish healthy is our number one priority at Kenya marine center. Are you curious to know the reason behind our high quality fish at Kenya marine center and how we have achieved that? I will share with you our secret. Having Over a decade of experience in the fish industry we have gained informative skills and strategies that have played a great role in improving our fish health.

The key thing we avoid in order to keep our fish happy is stress. A stressed fish is susceptible to diseases that jeopardize their health. At Kenya Marine center we go out of our way to ensure our fish are in a relaxed environment. We enjoy seeing our fish swimming freely and radiant in our holding facility before export.

Below are some tips to make your fish happy

Fish Acclimation

Acclimation is the process of accustoming the aquatic species to your aquarium water. At Kenya Marine Center we acclimate fish brought in from the wild before introducing them to our system as we prepare them for export. This process is important because fish from the wild are adapted to ocean water which has a slight difference in parameters from the one in our holding facility. Introducing fish in your aquarium water abruptly might lead to stress or PH shock. That’s why we must acclimate our fish at Kenya Marine Center.

How we acclimate our fish at KMC

Drip line Method

In this method we float the fish bag for about 15 minutes in our aquarium water to equalize the water temperature. Then we pour the contents in a bucket and set up a drip line from the aquarium to the bucket. We ensure the water slowly flows into the bucket. Once the water level in the bucket is double that of actual fish bag water, we dispose half of the water without harming the fish and repeat the process. When the process is over, the fish is now ready for its new environment.

Water quality.

Water entails the whole fish environment and thus plays the main role in fish health.  Fish put in poor condition get easily stressed. At Kenya Marine Center, we avoid this by ensuring all water parameters necessary for fish are observed in the holding facility and during transportation. We test our water frequently and this keeps us alert on what’s happening in our holding facility at any given time. It enables us monitor our fish and detect any suspicious behavior or fish discomfort and hence take corrective measures with immediate effect. We ensure to keep our water safe and suitable for our fish to keep them happy and healthy

Here are the major water parameters we observe, on a daily basis.

PH: 7.6-8.4

Temperature: Optimal range 24° C to 27° C

Salinity: Specific Gravity:  Broad range 1.025

Ammonia (NH3): Zero

Nitrite (NO2): Zero

Nitrate (NO3): Ideally Zero to 25ppm

Dissolved Oxygen: >6.90 mg/L

 

Good Nutrition

Fish should be fed healthy, that you can read in every book. But what is healthy feeding? It’s ensuring your fish eat good quality food which is a must if you want them healthy. Good nutrition boosts fish immunity making them resistible to diseases. At Kenya Marine Center we are careful on selecting fish feeds as we understand that every fish has its own demands and needs, for instance, Doctor and tangs like vegetable based food while lions are predators. This strong opposition on feeding behavior force us to act on it.

We are also very careful on the amount of food we provide for our fish. We ensure to provide just enough. Feeding too much can be risky. The leftover food decomposes in water altering the water parameters hence creating an uncomfortable environment for fish which causes stress. Underfeeding on the other hand will result to emaciated fish.

Fishes who go in export are exempted from feeding for 24 – 48 HRS.

Our Biological department watch the feeding 7 days a week as it is a daily task.

 

 

 

 

Regular Treatment

A fish holding facility works different from a home aquarium and we as exporters have to react on it.

In mass animal keeping, sanitation is a very important point. Out of this reason we have to do a regular treatment program for the whole facility.

We have been practicing this over the past ten years which has played a big role in keeping our fish parasites free and healthy. Ensuring our fish are in a safe and suitable environment has increased their quality as well.

 

Generally, we have been kin in observing all of the above and that’s how we have managed to have the best quality fish over the ten years. Our commitment to making our fish happy and healthy has resulted to us having the most admirable and happy fish. To sum it up keeping your fish happy is ensuring they are in a comfortable environment and knowing the right way to treat them. It is important to take care of your fish if you want them to stay healthy and of good quality.

Aquarium Tips: 12 Things to consider before taking up an Aquarium hobby

Source: drsfostersmith

Aquariums are a wonderful hobby, providing hours of restful, beautiful entertainment. They can be a great way for children to learn about ecosystems, and they can help to relieve the stress of everyday life. They do require some work, thought, and planning, and this article will help you to get started.

Your first consideration should be whether you can give your fish the care, time, and patience that they will need from you. Fish can be a large time and financial commitment, because they need special attention and equipment. And, since different fish have different needs, a trip to the library, book store, or one of many online resources makes a good starting point. For every kind of fish that you consider, you should address the following twelve areas of concern.

1. Start-up cost and fish type 2. Aquarium size and placement 3. Patience and the nitrogen cycle 4. Filtration equipment 5. Ultraviolet (UV) sterilizers 6. Aquarium lighting 7. Heaters and thermometers 8. Test kits and the addition of chemicals 9. Food and supplements 10. Health control 11. Buying healthy fish from the start 12. Do not forget the live plants

1. Start-up Cost and Fish Type Keeping aquarium fish typically has a fairly high start-up cost. This is mostly due to all the equipment needed to provide the fish with a proper environment. Purchasing an aquarium, filters, lights, and other essentials can add up quickly if you are not careful. Fish themselves can range from inexpensive to very expensive for special or rare species. For a beginning freshwater fish enthusiast, a typical aquarium start-up cost can range from $200 and up, depending on the types of fish and equipment selected. Marine (saltwater) fish and marine tank setups will cost more than freshwater setups. In both cases, the larger the tank the higher the cost will be.

A typical tropical freshwater aquarium can safely support one inch of fish per gallon of water, although this will vary with the amount of water surface area. (More surface area allows more oxygen, which supports more fish. Fish length is calculated at full-grown size, less the tail measurement.) Some fish are schooling fish, which by nature are more comfortable in bigger groups. Other fish may not like to be in an aquarium with any others of their own species. And, if they are territorial – as most marine fish and some freshwater fish can be – they will need more room in the aquarium than the average one-inch per gallon.

Both marine and freshwater setups have benefits and drawbacks. Marine fish are more colorful and beautiful, but require a higher level of care and expertise, so for a beginning fish enthusiast, a freshwater aquarium is recommended. Freshwater aquariums tend to be easier to maintain than marine aquariums because there are fewer water parameters to worry about.

2. Aquarium Size and Placement A good way to determine the size and type of aquarium you need to purchase is to get an idea of what kind of fish you find attractive. Your choice will be further restricted by where you can place the tank in your home, and by your budget. But as a general guideline, bigger is better. If you buy a larger aquarium than you think you need at first, it gives you room to add more fish later, if you choose to do so. The larger aquarium will also have more water, which can help dilute chemicals or other substances that may pollute the aquarium and cause illness in fish. No matter what size aquarium you choose, be sure that you can locate it somewhere with a level, sturdy, support surface, and where it is not in danger of being bumped into or knocked over. You should also keep your aquarium away from heater vents, windows, or doors, as these can produce harmful temperature fluctuations. Proximity to windows is also not recommended for aquariums, because it can allow too much light into the tank. Excess light leads to algae buildup, and you will quickly find yourself fighting a losing battle.

3. Patience and the Nitrogen Cycle* You may think that because your water starts out fine as you begin your setup, that it will remain that way. Not true. As you add fish to your aquarium, their waste produces harmful chemicals. Fortunately, nature provides a solution in the form of bacteria that break down these toxic chemicals into relatively harmless chemicals. The process nature uses to eliminate toxins from the tank is called the nitrogen cycle. Fish excrete toxic ammonia as part of respiration, and decaying fish waste and uneaten food produces additional ammonia. As the nitrogen cycle begins, the ammonia is converted by special kinds of bacteria into nitrites (which are also harmful), and these are then converted into nitrates. Excess nitrates can be controlled through routine water changes. The bacteria required for this process build slowly on the surface of your filters and gravel or substrate, and the process can take up to six weeks, starting from the day that you first add fish to your aquarium.

Developing enough bacteria to maintain the health of your aquarium requires both time and patience on the part of the beginning aquarium hobbyist. You will need time to “cycle” the tank. There are various recommendations on how to accomplish this. The number one rule is to go slowly. This means, at first, you may only add some plants. After about two weeks, add a few hardy fish which are tolerant of changing water conditions. You should start with fewer fish than your aquarium can hold, then add any additional fish over a period of weeks, allowing the ecosystem in the aquarium to readjust (recycle) in between. Each step needs to be gradual so the bacteria have enough time to multiply and break down the increasing amount of waste products.

Nitrogen Cycle

Until the nitrogen cycle is established, it can be a stressful time for new fish and for you. It is a good idea to have an ammonia test kit on hand to monitor the nitrogen cycle by testing the water regularly. Despite the temptation to make changes to your aquarium, it is important that you not intervene unless ammonia or nitrite levels become intolerably high for long periods of time (temporary highs in both ammonia and nitrite levels are a part of the process). You should also avoid adding too many fish while the nitrogen cycle is being established, because you will disrupt the bacterial growth. As the cycle naturally progresses, the fish already in the aquarium can gradually adjust to changing water conditions with slightly elevated ammonia or nitrites. New fish might find these levels deadly.

Once the nitrogen cycle is completed, your aquarium will be able to detoxify constant levels of ammonia and other chemicals as long as you maintain the bacteria colony. Keeping those colonies healthy, or optimizing the amount of bacteria in the aquarium, can be a function of the type of filtration equipment that you choose to use.

*This classic method to cycling aquariums represents a traditional approach. Modern innovations have significantly reduced the length of the cycling process. Please take A New Look at Cycling for a quicker modern approach to establishing a functioning biological filter in your new aquarium set-up.

4. Filtration Equipment Determining the right filtration equipment is one of the most confusing but important choices that you will need to make. Essentially, aquarium filters work in three different ways.

Biological filtration takes advantage of the natural bacterial process involved in the nitrogen cycle. Biological filter media provide larger surfaces for beneficial bacteria to colonize, ensure that water passes through the colonies, and help to protect those bacteria from being disturbed.

Mechanical filtration removes unsightly particles from the aquarium. This may include fish excrement, sludge, uneaten food, or dust. Tank water is passed through a mechanical filter media, and the particles are strained out. To prevent build-up, the filter media must be cleaned regularly.

Chemical filtration can remove some dissolved wastes from the water which a mechanical filter is unable to take care of. When water passes through a chemical filter media, the filter media chemically bonds with the waste molecules and holds onto them, thereby removing them from the aquarium.

Canister FiltersDifferent filters offer various combinations of each filtration method:

  • Canister filters incorporate various types of media under pressure to accomplish the three types of filtration. When under pressure, water is forced through media that it would not normally pass, thus providing us with great mechanical filtration. Biological filtration is accomplished with various types of media, such as Ceramic rings, and sponges. Chemical media can be any number of carbon or resins, or a combination thereof. Canisters are slightly more difficult to maintain, but allow the greatest flexibility with different types of media, and the best mechanical filtration.
  • Power filters provide the convenience of a filter that hangs off of the back of the tank, and media changes are generally simple and convenient. Most of these types of filters use a cartridge, making media replacement extremely convenient. Some will also employ a permanent type of biological filtration such as a sponge or bio-wheel. They are good all-around filters and great for smaller aquariums (55 gallons or less). Larger aquariums may warrant more than one, or upgrade to a different type of filtration.
  • Wet/Dry filters use a biological media, such as Bio-balls, or Bio-Wheels, to provide a very efficient biological filter. The water is usually distributed through a drip plate or spray bar across the biological media. This allows for optimum biological efficiency, and gas exchange. A wet/dry filter will typically use a sponge or other type of media for mechanical filtration. Chemical filtration may be added by the user.

5. Ultraviolet (UV) Sterilizers UV sterilizers can be used in the control of free-floating algae, bacteria, viruses, fungus, and even some parasites. UV sterilizers incorporate a germicidal or UV lamp in which the ultraviolet rays affect certain organisms based on the amount of ultraviolet rays they are exposed to. The effectiveness is based directly on the flow rate of the water through the sterilizer, the wattage and diameter of the sterilizer itself, and the size of the aquarium. UV sterilizers are particularly beneficial in reef aquariums and marine fish-only aquariums. While some freshwater aquariums will use a UV sterilizer, they are not nearly as common and not considered essential equipment. If a larger UV sterilizer is used to control parasites as well as bacteria, be aware that they can generate a lot of heat and may increase the need of a chiller in large reef aquariums.

6. Aquarium Lighting Proper lighting is essential for tanks containing live plants, or marine animals that are dependent on light for food. Good lighting will also make the aquarium and the animals within look more attractive. Since the animals are no longer exposed to natural sunlight, providing the proper spectrum and intensity is vital for their overall good health.

7. Heaters and Thermometers No matter what kind of fish you choose, they will have fairly specific temperature requirements. The water temperature in an aquarium must remain constant; if the temperature fluctuates too much, your fish can become stressed, which can lead to illness. Most fish need a water temperature between 75 and 80ºF. If you have one species in your aquarium, you can set the temperature specifically to reflect their needs. If, however, you have multiple species, 76 or 77ºF is a safe temperature range. Marine aquariums may require more attention to keep a consistent temperature, as they tend to need more light, which can warm the water.

8. Test Kits and the Addition of Conditioners, Supplements, and AdditivesThe welfare of your new aquarium is dependent on its water quality. You will find that you need to purchase various chemicals and additives to help it achieve and maintain the proper balance for good water quality. Depending on the fish that you choose, you may need special pH adjusters and buffers, or salt and trace element additives. Water conditioners are a must for removing chlorine and harmful chemicals from tap water, and test kits are essential to ensure that your water quality begins and remains at viable levels.

Hikari Bio-Pure Food Varieties9. Food and Supplements Diet is an important element to ensure healthy fish, and the ideal diet goes beyond the basic “flaked” foods available in most stores. Flaked foods are sufficient for your fish, but feeding your fish flakes every day can be comparable to you eating nothing but rice every day and can eventually become quite boring.

There are different options when it comes to your fish’s diet, but the key thing to remember is that a varied diet is best. Plan on rotating fish food periodically and on providing supplements or vitamin boosters for added nutrition. This way the fish will be sure to receive all the nutrients they need and will remain active.

Some fish enthusiasts prefer live food. You may hear a good deal of debate about this topic as you progress in your hobby. Live food has its own set of risks and benefits and is a big enough issue that it should be left alone by beginners. Freeze-dried foods and pellets make good alternatives, as do items like zooplankton and krill, which can be purchased.

10. Health Control Illness – it happens to all living things. At one time or another, your fish may become sick. While at first you may feel helpless, do not worry; there are a number of ways you can treat your sick fish in your own home. While most of the treatments depend on the specific ailment, it is a good idea to plan ahead and get another tank set up to use as a “quarantine tank” This is also useful before adding new fish to an existing aquarium. By separating the sick fish, you can speed up the healing process and at the same time, reduce the risk of spreading the illness to other fish. Fish ailments can be caused by a variety of sources. The most common causes of sickness are fungal, bacterial, or parasitic in nature. You will need treatments for each of the main types, and it is best to keep these on hand before disaster strikes.

11. Buying Healthy Fish from the Start Before you go to buy your fish, you will need to set up your aquarium and have it running for at least 3-4 weeks beforehand to ensure that the nitrogen cycle is complete and all mechanical equipment is functioning properly. Once you are ready to buy, a reputable online retailer or pet store is a good place for beginners to buy their fish. You should decide in advance what species of fish you want and how many you want, so you can avoid temptation or pressure from pet store clerks to purchase something inappropriate. Remember that initially only a few of the hardiest species should be purchased, then after several weeks of allowing your aquarium to mature, additional fish can be purchased. There are also some things to keep in mind when you are picking out your fish in the store. Specifically, the fish should:

  • Be alert
  • Be active, but not hyperactive or skittish
  • Have clear eyes
  • Have full, but not bloated stomachs
  • Have well-shaped fins that are in good condition
  • Be breathing steadily, without laboring to breathe
  • Appear clean and colorful, without unnatural spots or excess slime

Be certain to get the fish home quickly, and ask the clerk to add extra water to the bag if you are going to drive more than fifteen minutes or so. Float the bag of fish in your aquarium to give it time to adjust to the water temperature. And, if you have made adjustments to pH or other chemical levels, gradually add water from your aquarium to the bag of fish over the next hour to give the fish time to acclimate. During this process, be careful to never add water from the fish store to the water in your aquarium. Remember, as a general rule of thumb, a tropical freshwater aquarium can safely support one inch of fish per gallon of water, though this increases with larger aquariums.

Live Plants12. Do Not Forget the Live Plants While live plants may be intimidating to some new freshwater aquarists, they do not have to be. If you acquire some of the hardier species, they can thrive in most aquariums and are notably beneficial in controlling algae, improving water quality, reducing stress for the fish, and making your aquarium look more natural and beautiful. If you will have plants, provide at least 1.5 watts of lamp power for every gallon of water in the aquarium (2-3 watts is better). Choose a medium to fine gravel substrate, and ideally, add a slow release fertilizer.

By following these few simple rules, you should have your aquarium up and running smoothly in 6-8 weeks. Remember that a larger tank is easier to regulate and allows a greater variety of species. While a 10-gallon tank may initially appear a little cheaper, a 29-gallon tank is a better starter tank and is going to provide a better environment for your fish, and a more diverse population of fish.

Happy new year 2019! To continued success in the aquarium industry.

From all of us here at Kenya Marine Center, Happy 2019! Any new year resolutions for your tanks, fish or feeding methods? Our wish this year is to have even more opportunities to serve you better, expand to more regions, engage more people with our livestock and participate more in projects that help inspire appreciation for our marine life and their conservation.

 

Just a little reminder before christmas!

ORDER IN ADVANCE TO AVOID DELAYS

The holiday season is upon us and we would love to avoid any last minute shipment delays and cancellations due to less freight space or flight cancellations due to bad weather.

Send in your orders in good time so there won’t be any disappointments. We would also like to remind you that our pre-christmas offers are still on. Grab them early!

DON’T FORGET HEAT PACKS ARE ALSO AVAILABLE!!!
If you live in a cold region, don’t forget to add heat packs to your order to ensure your livestock arrive alive and well.

BEST PRE-CHRISTMAS SPECIAL DEALS

We are at that time of the year when orders are at peak and rush is around the corner. The festive season is almost here with us and we are already feeling a little celebratory and that’s why we are offering you the best pre-christmas special deals around.

You don’t want to be left out on this one, its a good one!

Order above 50 Lysmata Grabhami’s and the price will be standard for all sizes.

Special deal / $2.50 (all sizes)

Don’t miss out on Free Cooperi’s for a minimum order of $600

Special deal / 10 free pseudanthias cooperi for minimum order of $600

 

Just a reminder, all shipments to cold climate areas during this season should include heat packs in their orders!

HOW WE PACK LIVE FISH FOR SHIPPING

Hey aquarists and hobbyists alike, hope November is treating you well so far? We bring you into our world with an insight of how the packing process is at Kenya Marine Center in the video below. Our packing is done under strict supervision to ensure everything is done efficiently and the entire process is seamless.

Consider These 6 Points Before Buying a Marine Aquarium Cleanup Crew

Marine aquarium cleanup crews (CUC)—those combo packs of various snails, crabs, and echinoderms sold for the purpose of algae control and detritus elimination—can serve an excellent utilitarian function in a saltwater system. What’s more, in addition to the janitorial duties they perform, many of these invertebrates are fascinating to observe in their own right and add yet another layer of enjoyment to the hobby.

Hermits crabs are a common saltwater aquarium cleanup crew member. Pictured is an Electric Blue Hermit (Calcinus elegans).

Hermits crabs are a common saltwater aquarium cleanup crew member. Pictured is an Electric Blue Hermit (Calcinus elegans).

However, any time you introduce livestock to an aquarium, there are compatibility issues, long-term care requirements, and other factors to think about. So, before investing your hard-earned dollars in any combination of critters to clean your aquarium, consider the following six points:

#1 Cleanup crews are just part of the solution

Cleaner organisms can certainly do their part to help keep irksome algae under control and scavenge uneaten food and detritus from those tight nooks and crannies, but they’re only part of the solution. You still have to do your part to minimize nutrient import and maximize its export by:

In other words, a cleanup crew is no substitute for good-old-fashioned “elbow grease.”

#2 Know what’s in the mix

Critter assemblages can vary considerably from one company’s cleanup crew to the next. Before committing to one, be sure to identify exactly which species are included in the package and thoroughly research their characteristics and care requirements—just as you would when adding a fish or coral to your tank. You want to verify that:

  • You can meet the long-term needs of all the species in the package.
  • All the species in the crew will be incompatible with your current livestock (e.g. they won’t eat valued specimens and your valued specimens won’t eat them) and are otherwise appropriate for your setup.
  • All members of the crew actually eat what they’re purported to eat.

#3 Ignore critter-per-gallon guidelines

Various retailers often recommend adding a certain number of snails, hermit crabs, etc. per gallon of tank capacity to keep algae in control. These types of rules are of little utility because what matters most to grazing and scavenging organisms is available real estate, not how many gallons of water the system can hold.

For example, if you have a 100-gallon aquarium that’s only sparsely aquascaped with live rockand you add 100 Astraea sp. snails to the system to control, say, an outbreak of diatoms. They’ll very quickly use up the available food supply and begin dying off.

A much better approach is to add a lower-than-recommended number of cleaner organisms to the tank and then observe their impact on the algae. You can always add more later on if necessary.

#4 Famine may follow feast

An Astraea snail moves across the glass while chowing down on algae.

An Astraea snail moves across the glass while chowing down on algae.

The scenario with the Astraea snails mentioned above is just one of many examples in which cleaner organisms end up eating themselves out of house and home. Another is Astropecten polycanthus, the sand-sifting starfish, which is often included in cleanup crew packages. This species does a great job of keeping an aquarium sand bed clean of detritus and uneaten food—along with any tiny organisms it happens to encounter in the sand.The trouble is, this starfish often does its job too well, consuming all the available microfauna in the sand bed and then gradually starving to death. This is often the outcome when this species is kept in small systems, it’s not provided an adequately deep sand bed, or the sand bed (regardless of its size and depth) simply doesn’t harbor an adequate population of microfauna.

#5 Crabs require caution

Various and sundry crabs, such as Clibanarius spp. hermit crabs and emerald crabs(Mithraculus sculptus), are also commonly included in cleanup-crew packages. But before adding any of these clawed critters to your system, be mindful that many of these crabs—even those that are largely considered herbivorous—are opportunistic omnivores that will sometimes decide to consume things we’d rather they didn’t.

For instance, it’s not unheard of for the ubiquitous blue-legged hermit crab (Clibanarius tricolor) to go rogue and feed on coral polyps and other small critters, including other members of the cleanup crew (i.e., snails). I can also attest from personal experience that M. sculptus is not entirely trustworthy around smaller fishes. One once sheared the entire anal fin and part of the caudal fin off a clownfish in my 75-gallon reef tank.

#6 Results will vary

As mentioned in the introduction to this post, cleanup crews can perform a very important function while providing additional interest. But keep in mind that these critter combos don’t always perform as well as advertised. Owing to factors such as the regular availability of alternate foods (e.g., fish food) in the system or the presence of excessive dissolved pollutants causing an especially intractable algae problem, these organisms may either completely ignore the items you want them to eat or make such a small dent in the problem that it’s hardly noticeable.

The bottom line is, a cleanup crew is just one part of the aquarium-maintenance picture. The rest is up to you!

 

Written by Jeff Kurtz

Photo Credits: Lucas Thompsonaquarist.me

Source: saltwatersmarts.com

Diamond flasher (16)

Five Surprising Facts about Your New Saltwater Fish

Everyone loves the rich, brilliant colors of saltwater fish, and it goes without saying that their presence in an aquarium adds a vivid boost to any pet parent’s life. But there are some things that you probably did not know about saltwater aquarium fish. Read on for five fun facts that just might surprise you.

 

Did you know…

  • Not all saltwater fish are the same. You’re probably already familiar with the wide range of colors, shapes and sizes of saltwater fish, but did you also know that some saltwater fish are herbivores, some are carnivores, and some are omnivores? It’s wise to keep these differences in mind when selecting fish for your aquarium, so you can provide the correct diet for each inhabitant.
  • Saltwater fish drink water. Unlike their freshwater counterparts, saltwater fish drink water. Thanks to the effects of osmosis, they must drink water in order to compensate for the water that is being drawn out of their bodies. In the case of freshwater fish, the water is drawn into their bodies instead of out, thus eliminating the need to drink.
  • They use all five senses. While they might not see, hear, smell, touch and taste in exactly the same way we do, fish possess all five senses and use them to locate food, detect danger and communicate with one another.
  • Fish are smart. Don’t underestimate the cognitive power of saltwater fish. They are more than able to communicate with each other (and with you) by exhibiting certain signals and behaviors, so observe your fish closely in order to interpret their behavior.
  • Not all saltwater fish are friends. Fish are grouped into categories such as “community”, “semi-aggressive”, or “aggressive” when talking about compatibility, however, even fish that are coined “community” may not play nice. Some species get along with other fish, but are aggressive to their own species, while others may only get along with their own species if they are a mated pair. Some male fish like to live in a harem; in a group of all females, and will fight if other males are introduced to the tank. It is imperative that you research the behaviors and characteristics of each species you choose to add to your aquarium to make sure they are compatible with the existing residents.

Source: petco.com

Working towards a cleaner, healthier marine ecosystem: International Coastal cleanup

This past weekend, Kenya Marine Center helped coordinate and took part in the International Coastal cleanup that is held on the 15th of September anually. The Kenyan chapter which was divided into different cleanup sites along our entire coastline, recorded a large turn up and amazing team work to help make our environment cleaner and safer for our marine wildlife. The International Coastal Cleanup which saw its inception in 1986 catalyzed by the passion of two individuals; Kathy O’Hara and Linda Marannis, has since grown from just a small cleanup exercise in a small town in Texas to having over 100 countries participate yearly.

 

Unknown to some, the amount of pollution in our coastal lines especially plastic, has immense effect to our marine wildlife who end up dying as a result of chocking from plastic bags and straws or inhaling harsh chemicals dumped in our oceans. The coastal clean up saw people collect trash, and record data to help track and assist in the elimination of complete waste in the future. We took part in the Kikambala cleanup. Participants included corporate organizations, schools and the Kikambala community as a whole.

 

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

Below is a round up of the cleanup exercise in other sections of thecoastline

 

 

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center

International coastal cleanup - Kenya Marine Center